
Even in my younger days, I would have been consider a foodie. I just loved trying new and unique foods, so long as they didn’t contain lettuce…or broccoli…or cauliflower…or ok I just liked new meat stuffs I guess.
Anyways, I think it was my junior year of high school, when my dad and I decided to have a father/son weekend in Chicago. And when I say that we decided, I mean that he said we were going to do it, and I decided that I really liked him paying for my car, and he was a pretty good guy so it was cool with me.
That Saturday, I remember we went to a Cubs game (where my dad decided that he was only going to pay the ticket scalper $24 for the tickets we had agreed to pay $25 for, which did not make the man happy and was the first time I genuinely feared for my life, all over $1 less than what Lane Meyer owed the paperboy).

After the near death baseball game, we went to Nick’s Fishmarket for dinner. Really nice seafood place, white tablecloths, close to fine dining. I’m looking through the menu, and I see this thing called see-oh-pin-oh, which looked absolutely delicious. Mussels? Never had them, but they sound cool. Shrimp? Sure. Fish? Yes please. Tomato? Sure ok, price you have to pay to get the seafoods.
The waiter comes to take our order, we’ll call him Raul.
(Why Raul? Well, my dad called every waiter Raul, which was amusing but also slightly annoying, because not every waiter was Mexican/Spanish, but it was the late 80’s so being culturally insensitive wasn’t a big deal.)
So Raul asks what I would like, and I say cioppino, which thankfully my dad had taught me how to pronounce correctly. And then he asks what kind of dressing would I like on my salad. This posed a problem for me, because salads have lettuce, and lettuce is the work of the devil. So I went to my go to backup plan, and asked if I could substitute soup for the salad.
At that point, Raul looked at me with horror, like I had done something awful, like infected the restaurant with a plague, or wore a White Sox hat on the North Side of Chicago, or made some awful racist statement (strangely, cultural insensitivity wasn’t a big deal, but overt racism was, it was a weird time).
I wondered what my offense was, but then my dad chimed in and said “you’re basically having two soups if you do that”. Apparently he and Raul were in on the conspiracy together. I didn’t see what was wrong with that, but I guess in fine dining it’s a sin to have two soups. So sadly, I missed out on the clam chowder.
(Nick’s closed down in 2009. I think Raul had something to do with it.)
(My dad also died the next year. I can’t say for certain that Raul had something to do with it, but I can’t say that he didn’t.)
Wow, ok that was a long journey I didn’t expect to take 2 1/2 hours ago when I started writing this, but we had fun, right? Anyways, if you haven’t had cioppino before, it’s an absolutely delicious stew of fish and other seafood, in a tomato broth/sauce that pretty much begs to be sopped up with hunks of crusty bread. I mean, it doesn’t actually beg for it, GMO foods haven’t mastered speech yet…but I’m sure it’s coming.
If you’re going to make cioppino, there’s a few things to keep in mind.
- First, this is usually not a budget friendly dish. We caught a good time with sales on shrimp and mussels, and we had some frozen seafood from Sea2Table, who is not a sponsor of this blog…but they could be…
- That said, the types of seafood you can use in this is completely flexible. The only thing I would say you really should have is shrimp, but anything else is fair game.
- Except for Patrick the Starfish. Speaking of Patrick…
- A good broth is essential for this dish. No boxed seafood broth here – you wouldn’t want that anyways, I’ve never had a boxed seafood broth that didn’t taste like the dregs of Bikini Bottom.
- The vegetables need to be cut very finely. You don’t want chunks of veggies distracting you from the deliciousness of the seafoods and broths.
So the first thing you’ll want to do is shell and devein the shrimps. The stuff in the vein is nasty, it’s a bit of a pain but take the time to cut it out. But, don’t discard the shells, because they’re going to help make the broth.
Now, get those shrimps in to the fridge, they’ll need to chill for a while. Meanwhile, grab an onion, a few celery stalks, and a couple carrots, and rough chop them. Wash the carrots, you don’t need to peel them for a broth.
Once those are prepped, get yourself a big saute pan or pot, and heat a couple glugs (technical term) of olive oil over medium heat. Then, dump in the shrimp shells and veggies, and cook them for about 15 minutes.

Give them a regular stir every minute or so. If the bottom looks like it’s getting a little too brown, throw a little water in the pan to scrape it up and cool things down just a bit. I would have had a picture of what this should look like after 15 minutes, but one of our dogs decided to be adorable, and you’d rather see a picture of her, right?

Once the veggies are softened and browned a little, and the shrimp shells are pink and cooked, it’s time to add the rest of the ingredients to the broth party.

Here you’re going to add:
- A quart box of chicken broth (I know I said no boxed seafood broth, but boxed chicken broth is perfectly acceptable)
- A bottle of clam juice
- A mini bottle of dry white wine (if you don’t believe in mini bottles of wine, 3/4 of a cup is about what it comes out to)
- A few big squeezes of tomato paste
- A cup of water
- And a bunch of thyme sprigs
Get those into the pan, bring everything up to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer, and let that go for an hour. This broth should be super flavorful, bright, shrimpy/fishy/tomato-y. Which is good, because it’s going to be the main flavor base for the dish.
When it’s done, strain the broth through a fine mesh strainer, and push against the veggies and shells to get every last bit of flavor out of them. That’s right, you had flavor, and these solids are trying to steal it from you, and you must smash them into submission.
Now that you’ve broken the spirit of your broth, we can start with the main dish. You’re going to cut up an onion, a bulb of fennel, and a bunch of garlic cloves. These should be cut really small – it’s not an onion/fennel stew, it’s seafood stew. These guys are merely backup singers in the show (I am all over the place on my metaphors, I know).
To cut the fennel up, you’ll need to remove the core, but it’s weird to explain, so I’ll let my favorite convict Martha tell you about it (hey, my last post was for Prison Sauce, there’s a theme here, maybe?!):
Once you have everything cut into little altos and sopranos (they’re backup singers, get it, ohhhhh I see what you thought I meant with sopranos, no I’m not involved in anything illegal, do laws exist anymore?), you’re going to add some olive oil to a stock pot, heat it up to medium, and then add the veggies and saute them for a few minutes to soften their edge a bit and get them smelling all fragrant. Then add a pinch or two of red pepper flakes to the pan, depending on how spicy you want it to be.
Next, you’re going to add more dry white wine to the mixture. If you bought a 4 pack of mini-bottles, empty one of those in; if you’re still full sized or nothing, another 3/4 of a cup should hit the pot. Let that reduce by about half, which should take another 3-5 minutes or so.
Once that’s reduced, you’re going to add in all of that delicious broth you strained/smashed, as well as a big can of crushed tomatoes. Get that up to a simmer and let that go for 15 minutes or so to get the veggies soft, and so the broth and tomatoes can get chummy with each other, maybe unite around public health, Miami being in the college football playoff over Notre Dame, any number of things.
While the broth mixture is doing its thing, you should start getting your seafood ready to go. If you’ve thawed frozen seafood, it’s probably best to lay it on some paper towels to get rid of the excess moisture. This isn’t a dish where browning matters, but you’ve spent so much effort building a strong flavor base, you don’t want to dilute it.
Here’s our seafood fit check:

We got us some shrimps, scallops, mussels, and snapper. Snapper isn’t typical for cioppino, you’d usually have a meatier fish like a cod, but you dance with the fish that Sea2Table sent ya (not a sponsor…though they could be). Cut anything that isn’t in bite size form to bite size form. Especially the mussels, definitely cut those up.
(Please don’t.)
When everything is ready to go, you’ll start layering in your seafood from longest to cook to shortest. Typically the fish would go in first, then scallops, and then shrimp (snapper is so thin that I put them above the shrimp).
The final layer needs to be the mussels, for three reasons.
- The mussels need to cook all the way through, or it’s going to get ugly, and the only way you’ll know they’re done is to see them open up.
- They make this sound when they hit the broth like they’re screaming for joy. Or death. It could go either way.
- Their tears I mean juices are going to add another layer of flavor to the dish.
Cover the pot with a lid and let it go for 3-4 minutes. Then come back and see how the mussels are doing. They’ll probably need a couple minutes more, but this will give you a sense of where things are.
Once the mussels are opened, you’re all set to eat. Get yourself a bowl, ladle a whole bunch of broth and seafood into a bowl, and then grab a hunk or three of crusty bread and devour. You’ve earned this – trust me, that’s what the mussels said in their last breath.
Cioppino
Adapted from Ina Garten and Brian Lagerstrom
Serves 4-6
Ingredients
4 T olive oil, divided 2 x 2 T
1 pound shrimp, shelled and deveined, shells reserved
3 celery stalks, chopped
2 carrots, washed and chopped
2 medium onions, 1 chopped and 1 finely diced
4 cups chicken broth
1 8 oz bottle of clam juice
1 cup water
1 1/2 cups dry white wine, divided into 3/4 cup servings
1/4 cup tomato paste
6 thyme sprigs
1/2 bulb fennel, diced small
4-6 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 t red pepper flakes
1 28 oz can crushed tomatoes
1 pound meaty white fish, like cod
1 pound scallops, cut into bite sized pieces
1 pound mussels
Directions
In a large sauté pan, add 2 tablespoons of olive oil and heat over medium-high heat. Add the reserved shrimp shells, followed by the carrots, celery, and chopped onion. Saute for 15 minutes, until the shells have turned pink and the vegetables have gotten some color. If the bottom of the pan starts to brown too quickly, add a tablespoon or two of water to deglaze the pan.
Add the chicken broth, clam juice, water, 3/4 cup of the white wine, tomato paste, and thyme sprigs to the pan. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 1 hour. Strain through a fine-meshed sieve, pressing on the vegetables and shrimp shells to extract as much broth as possible. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.
In a large pot, add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, and heat over medium-high heat. Add the fine diced onion, fennel, and garlic to the pan, and saute for 3-5 minutes, until fragrant. Add the red pepper flakes and cook for 1 minute. Add the remaining 3/4 cup of red wine, and cook until reduced by half, about 2-3 minutes.
Add the reserved broth and can of crushed tomatoes to the pan. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes.
Check the mussels to ensure they are alive. If any shells are open, tap on them to see if they close – if they do not, discard them. Discard any with broken shells.
In even layers, add the fish to the pot, followed by the shrimp, scallops, and mussels. Cover the pot and cook for 3-4 minutes. Remove the lid to check on the doneness of the mussels. Continue cooking until the mussels have opened, about another 2-4 minutes.
Ladle broth and seafood into a bowl, and serve with crusty bread.














































